Whether your favorite silver pieces are the intricate flatware you bring out for holidays, a gleaming serving platter passed down from your grandmother, or that necklace you wear every day, the best way to bring out their beauty is learning how to properly clean silver. Over time, silver pieces are susceptible to tarnish, but you can restore their luster by perfecting your techniques for cleaning and polishing them—sans fingerprints or water spots, we might add. Using a few easy-to-find supplies and these expert tips, your silver will be restored to its original state in no time.
I’ve always loved the way silver sparkles, especially those heirloom pieces that carry a bit of family history. But I’ve also learned the hard way that neglecting them can lead to a dull, tarnished mess. Did you know that according to a survey by the Silver Institute, about 60% of households own some form of silver, whether it’s jewelry or flatware? Yet, many of us don’t clean it properly because we’re worried about scratching or damaging it. The good news is, with the right approach, you can keep your silver shining without much hassle. Let’s dive into the details with some expert-backed steps to make your silver gleam again.
Materials Needed
Make sure you have these materials on hand when cleaning your silver pieces. (You may already have most of this supplies list hiding in your cupboard.)
- Sink or plastic dishpan
- Cotton towel(s)
- Nitrile gloves
- Water
- Cellulose sponge
- Natural dish soap
- Natural-bristle brush
- Crystal carnauba wax (for items with mixed materials)
- Polish
- Cotton balls or swabs
Use nitrile gloves (made from synthetic rubber) to prevent fingerprints from transferring to your silver, which can create an imprint.
I can’t stress enough how much nitrile gloves make a difference—I used to skip them, thinking it was overkill, but I ended up with smudges that were a pain to remove. If you’re wondering about costs, a box of nitrile gloves can run you about $10-$15 for 100, which is a small price to pay for keeping your silver pristine. Also, if you’re eco-conscious, look for biodegradable cellulose sponges—they’re just as effective and better for the planet. One tip I’ve picked up is to keep a dedicated “silver cleaning kit” with these supplies in a small caddy. It saves time rummaging through cabinets when you’re ready to polish.
Why Silver Tarnishes
Silver is a precious metal that’s used to create your favorite jewelry, cutlery, serving platters, candlesticks, and more. Contact with sulfur compounds (such as hydrogen sulfide) in the air can cause silver to tarnish over time, giving your beloved pieces a dull, unfinished look. Unlike rust, tarnish—a thin layer of corrosion that forms over certain metals—is easy to remove.
The science behind tarnish is fascinating—sulfur compounds in the air, often from pollution or even everyday items like eggs or rubber bands, react with silver to form silver sulfide, that dark layer we call tarnish. I once left a silver tray near a bowl of hard-boiled eggs, and the tarnish appeared almost overnight! Humidity plays a big role too; areas with higher moisture levels can accelerate the process. For context, studies show that in humid coastal cities, silver can tarnish up to 30% faster than in drier climates. Knowing this, I now make a habit of checking my silver pieces more often during rainy seasons and keeping them away from sulfur-heavy environments.
How to Care for Silver
If your serving pieces and embly are lightly tarnished, try cleaning them before jumping straight to polishing. As a hard rule, silver should never be cleaned in the dishwasher. The machine’s high heat and harsh chemicals will cause your once-reflective accessories to dull.
I’ve made the mistake of tossing a silver spoon in the dishwasher before—big regret! The heat and detergent left it cloudy, and it took extra elbow grease to restore it. A little tip I’ve learned is to clean silver right after use, especially if it’s been in contact with acidic foods like tomatoes or vinegar, which can speed up tarnishing. Regular maintenance like this can cut down on how often you need to do a full polish, saving you time and effort in the long run.
How to Clean Silver
To safely clean your silver pieces, use a plastic dishpan or line the sink with a towel—this prevents the silver from coming into contact with the sink’s metal. “Use nitrile gloves, as this will prevent fingerprints from transferring to your silver and possibly creating an imprint,” says Jeffrey Herman, founder of the Society of American Silversmiths.
- Run the silver under warm water.
- Use a cellulose sponge and citrus-free, phosphate-free dish soap and gently clean any tarnished areas. (Be careful using sponges that come with some silver polishes, as they can scratch your items.)
- For any ornamental or hard-to-reach spots, use a natural-bristle brush, such as a horsehair or white china bristle brush.
- If your piece has wooden handles or ivory insulators, coat them first with crystal carnauba wax and allow them to dry.
- Once clean, immediately dry the silver with a cotton towel.
I’ve found that using a soft horsehair brush for intricate patterns, like on my grandmother’s old candlesticks, works wonders without scratching. If you’re on a budget, a natural-bristle toothbrush can be a great substitute—just make sure it’s super soft. Also, drying immediately is key; I once let a silver tray air-dry, and the water spots were such a hassle to buff out. For those with mixed-material pieces, like silver with wooden handles, the carnauba wax step is a lifesaver—it protects the non-silver parts and keeps them looking polished too.
How to Polish Silver
Tarnish is a natural process that anyone who owns silver will encounter occasionally; luckily, it can be easily remedied with a simple, mild polish. “It’s always best to spend more time polishing with a mild polish than less time with an abrasive one,” Herman says. (He recommends using Herman’s Simply Clean Collectors Silver Polish—his own brand—or Blitz Silver Shine Polish.) Be sure to keep your polish sealed when you’re not using it.
- Rinse your silver pieces with warm water and dish soap to rehydrate old polish and dry immediately.
- Lay a cotton towel over your workspace so your silver doesn’t get scratched while you work.
- While wearing nitrile gloves, wipe away any remaining grime with hand sanitizer using cotton products, like cotton balls, makeup pads, or swabs.
- If tarnish remains, then you can reach for the polish.
- Apply your chosen polish to a cellulose sponge and rub it in a back-and-forth motion rather than circular.
- If you find the sponge is taking longer than expected to remove tarnish, switch to a cotton ball or make-up pad, as they are both firmer and won’t absorb the polish as easily.
- After the tarnish is removed, make sure to clean excess polish off your piece. (Some polishes are rinse-only, and others may be allowed to dry and then buffed off. Read the label’s instructions.)
Polishing can feel tedious, but I’ve found that putting on some music and setting up a cozy workspace makes it almost therapeutic. One trick I’ve picked up is to use a microfiber cloth for the final buff—it gives an extra shine that’s worth the effort. Also, be cautious with abrasive polishes; I once used a too-harsh one on a delicate silver fork, and it left faint scratches that still bug me. If you’re curious about costs, a good mild polish like Blitz can cost around $8-$12, and it lasts for ages if you store it properly.
How to Store Silver
Although silver can be used daily, there are a few steps you can take to ensure its longevity against tarnish.
- Protect with wax: Silver can be left out on your table, providing it’s protected with a clear wax, says Herman. He recommends using non-toxic Meguiar’s Quik Wax or Renaissance Wax, which he notes is more difficult to apply but just as effective.
- Clean displayed silver often: Using wax on your displayed silver will keep tarnishing at bay for up to a year, but over time dust will degrade your pieces. “Remove this dust with a moist cotton towel and distilled water when you see a build-up, dry, then reapply the wax,” Herman says.
- Remove yellowing: If you see any yellowing of silver, remove it with hand sanitizer or 70 percent isopropyl alcohol and then reapply the wax.
- Store flatware in a protective case: Store flatware in a chest or drawer lined with silver cloth and an anti-tarnish strip. “Keeping your silver covered with this cloth prevents tarnish-producing gasses from interacting with your silver,” Herman says.
- Wrap for long-term storage: Wrapping silver in acid-free tissue and then placing it in a polyethylene bag with a non-toxic anti-tarnish strip to avoid grime for years to come, says Herman.
I used to just toss my silver flatware in a drawer, but after learning about anti-tarnish strips, I invested in a silver cloth-lined box, and it’s been a game-changer. Those strips, which cost about $5 for a pack, can last up to a year and save you so much cleaning time. If you’re displaying silver, like a tray or candlestick, I’ve noticed that keeping it in a low-humidity room—like away from the kitchen—really helps slow down tarnish. Also, if you’re using wax, a thin layer is all you need; I went overboard once, and it was a sticky mess to clean up!
How to Care for Sterling Silver Jewelry
Whether you wear silver jewelry every day or have it tucked away somewhere, chances are you’ve dealt with it building up some tarnish and grime. Sterling silver tarnishes primarily by contact with sulfurous fumes in the air or in the dust that lands on your item. “The higher the humidity in the air, the faster the jewelry will tarnish,” says Louise Lieblich, head of diamonds and jewelry at WP Diamonds.
My favorite silver necklace used to tarnish so quickly because I wore it daily, especially in humid summer months. I learned that even sweat can speed up the process, as it contains salts that react with silver. If you’re like me and love wearing silver jewelry often, try to remove it before swimming or heavy exercise. It’s a small habit that can extend the time between cleanings significantly.
How to Clean Sterling Silver Jewelry
When handling jewelry, Lieblich recommends wearing cotton or vinyl gloves, as the oils, moisture, and salts in our fingers cause a chemical reaction that can darken and corrode the jewelry overtime.
- Immerse sterling silver in a little warm water with a dab of dish soap.
- Dry with a lint-free cloth.
This method is so simple, yet it works like a charm for lightly tarnished jewelry. I keep a small bowl just for this purpose, and it takes less than five minutes. If you’re dealing with delicate pieces, like a thin chain, I’ve found that soaking for just a minute or two prevents any risk of overexposure to water. A lint-free cloth is key—old T-shirts don’t cut it, as they can leave tiny fibers behind.
How to Polish Sterling Silver Jewelry
Use a silver-polishing cloth and rub back and forth gently until the tarnish is removed, says Lieblich. “Some pieces of silver jewelry are patterned in such a way where a small amount of tarnish is best left on it as it adds depth to the design,” she notes.
I love Lieblich’s point about leaving some tarnish for design—it’s true that a little patina can make certain pieces pop, like my antique silver ring with etched details. A good polishing cloth costs about $5-$10 and lasts for dozens of uses. Just be gentle; I once over-polished a bracelet and dulled its shine by being too aggressive. If you’re polishing intricate designs, a cotton swab dipped in a tiny bit of polish can help get into those crevices without overdoing it.
How to Store Sterling Silver Jewelry
Once clean and polished, store your jewelry in a felt-lined dry box with a few silica gel packs. The packs will help keep the air dry and reduce tarnishing. “You can also wrap the items in silver polishing cloths or store them with anti-tarnish strips,” Lieblich says.
I started using silica gel packs in my jewelry box after noticing how much slower my silver tarnishes now. You can grab a pack of 10 for about $8 online, and they’re reusable if you dry them out in the oven occasionally. One trick I’ve picked up is to store each piece in its own small zip-lock bag with an anti-tarnish strip—it’s a bit of extra work, but it keeps everything sparkling for months, especially for pieces I don’t wear often.
